2003 FJR Ignition Switch Failure Remedy

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Toura
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2003 FJR Ignition Switch Failure Remedy

Postby Toura » Tue Jul 16, 2013 3:48 pm

First up :
I ain't no lectricion : I did this on MY bike : It didn't burn to the ground : I am a bloke who's broke and needed to ride...real bad.
So, please take the information listed herein as an example of what I did to get MY bike mobile again. If you wish to undertake a similar reconfiguration, please consult your medical / electrical professional before continuing with this project. They may be able to help better than me. It almost sent me around the bend.

Secondly : My FJR is a 2003 Model (Aust.) with 194,000 k's on her clock. So the ignition switch has definitely done some hard work over the years.

Problem : NO IGNITION
Sitting on the bike ready to take off, I put the key into the ignition and attempted to turn the bike on : NOTHING
Took out my red key, did the same, same result.
Had the bike towed to my mechanics : troubleshooted the symptoms and found that the ignition switch was not switching power back to the motor.
A small length of HEAVY duty wire was put across the terminal block - at it worked. It was getting onto 5.00 o'clock and they wanted to go home.
No permanent solution though.

My thoughts :
All the ignition switch does is reroute that electrical stuff from the battery to the stuff that makes it all work. I cannot afford a new ignition switch and I won't have time to wait for one if I wanted to ride in two days time. What to do ?? ?? But I HAD to do something. I need to ride!

First - put the bike on centre stand : the bit of wood under the rear tyre makes it easier for us old blokes to lift her up.



Now, I put a jack under the exhaust headers (with a block of wood on top) to raise the front wheel, then proceed to get the ol' girl naked.



A block of wood under the tank



Get rid of the rubber bits and the "T BAR".





And this is the terminal block you are looking for :



The red wire runs power to the ignition switch : the brown/blue wire runs power back to the bike : after the ignition switch does it's job.
At the beginning, there was power to the red but nothing was coming back to the blue/brown after engaging the switch : and I tried it again with both keys.

My Thinking :
What I needed to achieve, was the transfer of current from one wire to another, when the ignition switch is turned on.
When I turned the keys to the "ON" position, I was getting power to the "parking" lights, so I did have activated power to somewhere at least!
All I had to do then, was redirect that power to a switching mechanism and reroute the power from the battery over to that blue/brown wire.

Please remember : do not try this unless YOU have sufficient knowledge of lectricity or you are working with someone that does. I AIN'T responsible for any smoke getting out of dem wires, OK!

What's Wanted :
Medium gauge wire : to go from the parking light on the RHS to the relay
Heavy Duty Wire
Relay : I used a five post 30A 12v relay
How does a relay work ?? : Google is your friend : http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb2.pdf
2 x 20A in-line fuse holders complete with 20A fuses
Various wiring connectors
Pliers , cutters, solder and soldering iron.
Three cups of coffee, three deep breaths and some balls!

Let the fun begin :

Disconnect the battery.
I repeat : DISCONNECT the battery.

Close to the frame on the RHS on top of the engine, you will find this terminal block : separate it.



Sorry, but I didn't think I would need to go step by step with pictures when I was doing the job, but :





Cut the red wire AFTER the male connector and splice the heavy gauge wire into it, so as to maintain current to the ignition switch.
Do the same with the blue/brown wire.

You should now have two lengths of heavy gauge wire that will have to be long enough to get to the outside of the frame on the RHS : my choice only - you can run them anywhere you like.
Now piggy-back the small gauge wire onto the power side of the parking light. When the ignition is turned on, this wire will become live and switch the relay over.

So, now you have three wires : where to connect them up.?

Cup of coffee time!

For each of the heavy gauge wires going back to the connector, I installed a 30A fuse in each wire : if something goes wrong, these will blow and now smoke will get out of the wires.

On the RHS, near the battery location, on the OUTSIDE of the frame, is a earth connection. I utilised this location to mount the relay and earth the relay back to the frame.



Now, the relay :

Pin 85 : connect the wire from the parking light : this when powered up , will activate the relay.
Pin 86 : connect the wire to this terminal and then back onto the earthing point on the frame.
Pin 30 : connect the wire from the RED wire splice - make sure you fitted fuse in-line.
Pin 87 : connect the wire from the BLUE/BROWN wire splice - make sure you fitted fuse in-line.
Pin 87A : do not use.

Bolt and earth the relay onto the frame.

Cup of coffee time, and take some extra breaths.

PLEASE ENSURE : that the extra wires that are now installed DO NOT impede the mechanically operation of any of the controls and are sufficiently insulated or placed away from the heat sources of the engine.

Connect the battery.

Insert key and turn on. DO NOT START.
Check parking light activation : have a look - Check relay activation : have a listen and feel.

If the parking lights are on, and the relay activates, and there is no smoke : hit the starter switch for a SHORT BURST only then turn immediately OFF.

If the starter engages, and again, if there isn't any smoke, turn on the ignition and start the bike.

Hopefully, you can now sit back and appreciate your own handiwork

Reassemble her back together again, sit back, have that last cup of coffee then find your helmet and take her for a ride.

It should now, start on the ignition key and starter switch and also turn off.

Again, I must stress, that this project was undertaken because I had no other options at the time.
Please source a professional's assistance if your circumstances are different. And hopefully they are.
Pat - toura@farriders.com.au

IBA 49588 : SS1600 - 2010,12,13 : SS2000 - 2011
Syd - Perth - Syd '09

FOREVER PROUDLY RIDING Image WITH "DAVO" FR#1

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Ken Fraser
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Re: 2003 FJR Ignition Switch Failure Remedy

Postby Ken Fraser » Tue Jul 16, 2013 5:05 pm

Good info there Pat, well done.
Maybe Steve or Thommo could pin the post.

Are you going to fix the ignition switch or is the temp fix permanent ???

Most of the failures are due to crook soldering of the wires on the back of the switch.
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Diversion
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Re: 2003 FJR Ignition Switch Failure Remedy

Postby Diversion » Tue Jul 16, 2013 7:58 pm

Ken Fraser wrote:Good info there Pat, well done.
Maybe Steve or Thommo could pin the post.

Are you going to fix the ignition switch or is the temp fix permanent ???

Most of the failures are due to crook soldering of the wires on the back of the switch.


Over time the contacts can wear or become oxidized so they don't make a connection; taking the lock stock and hopefully not smoking barrel to an Automotive locksmith to have it serviced would cost about $20 to $120 depending on what's required and how generous with your money the guy is.
Pulling the head clamp off to take to a locksmith would have been easier than what you did first off and even if it is not the problem it's still not a wasted effort.
Stupidity Kills
Speed is just along for the ride
http://nospeedcamerasparty.com/morefact ... sense.html

Current toy White FJR1300ap 2008 Called Frejya

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smurff
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Re: 2003 FJR Ignition Switch Failure Remedy

Postby smurff » Tue Jul 16, 2013 9:21 pm

Hell's Bells Mate !!!!! :o

You braver dan me an I is a lectrician...........

I can't begin to imagine how many "expensive" looms are at risk here .....

but when you gotta do somethin' :hand: just have a go - well done and well documented.
SMURFF

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Steve
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Re: 2003 FJR Ignition Switch Failure Remedy

Postby Steve » Wed Jul 17, 2013 10:18 pm

Ken Fraser wrote:Good info there Pat, well done.
Maybe Steve or Thommo could pin the post.
Done
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Toura
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Re: 2003 FJR Ignition Switch Failure Remedy

Postby Toura » Wed Jul 17, 2013 11:05 pm

Well the mod has been in for about two months now, with no problems at all. I even forget that there is a problem. Every time she just starts first time, every time. No smoke :naughty: :naughty: No loaded up starter.....no problems.

Fairly soon, I am going to have some major body repairs done and I WILL go over the WHOLE system just to make sure there is no chance that smoke gettin' out.

I'll keep Yas posted.
Pat - toura@farriders.com.au

IBA 49588 : SS1600 - 2010,12,13 : SS2000 - 2011
Syd - Perth - Syd '09

FOREVER PROUDLY RIDING Image WITH "DAVO" FR#1


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